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Monday, 18 November 2024: A White-Knuckle Return to Antigua from El Salvador

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Sunday, 3 November:   I was pleased when my cell phone alarm went off at 3:25AM – not that I like getting up at that hour but I was just pleased that the alarm went off at all.   I had been having trouble with my cell ever since waiting for my flight to Guatemala in Fort Lauderdale.   I kept periodically getting messages that there was moisture in the charging port and when that happened there was a noisy alarm and a message telling my to unplug the charger immediately.   It was acting up again in El Salvador and there was barely enough of a charge left to keep it going until the alarm was supposed to go off.   In defense of my cell phone, it’s old and used to Colorado’s low humidity. I was out at the gate at 3:55AM for the driver’s scheduled 4:00 arrival.   Four AM came and went, so I did yoga poses on the dark street in front of the gate to pass the time.   Finally, he arrived at 4:45 and muttered some excuse that I didn’t understand.   As I opened the door to the front passenger’s
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14 November 2024: An El Salvadoran Beach Day

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Up at 6:15AM on Sunday, November 2.   I’d planned to sleep in, but it was light out and a bit cool.   So, a good time to walk on the beach and take some photos in the early morning light.   I walked out to the highway and crossed the bridge over the little river that divides the town in two.   From there, I turned at the road which I followed for ½ kilometer down to the beach.   It was almost low tide, but big waves were crashing and I could see the attraction for surfers, a few of whom were already out waiting to catch a quick ride.   The black (volcanic) sand beaches were interrupted by promontories of volcanic conglomerate bedrock.   Eventually, I got back to the little beach on the other side of the river where most of the bars, restaurants, and surf shops are located.   It seemed like most of the tourists here are young (under 35), be they foreigners or Salvadoreños.   It was time for breakfast at Canegue (right off the beach), the best morning fare in El Zonte according to Eli
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12 November 2024: A long, slow ride to El Salvador

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Antigua, Guatemala is only a few hours by highway from El Salvador.   I thought of making the trip 10 years ago when I was in Antigua for an erosion control conference but quickly dismissed the idea because of reports that the country was overrun with gang violence.   That all started to change with the 2019 election of Nayib Bukele as President.   In 2022, he initiated a nationwide crackdown on gangs which resulted in the arrest of more than 83,000 people with suspected gang affiliations.   Bukele has been accused of human rights abuses (apparently innocent people have been caught up in the gang arrests), but the country’s homicide rate has plunged.   It is now the second lowest in the Americas after Canada.    Bukele is very popular and won reelection in a landslide in 2024. With that in mind, it seemed like a good time to make the trip.   The 3-day All-Saints/All Souls Days holiday weekend presented the opportunity.   I went back to the same travel agent who had set up the Lake At
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Thursday, 7 November 2024: Sixth Grade Graduation and Learning about the School’s Founders

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A week after I arrived at the School of Hope, they held an evening graduation ceremony for 6 th graders.  Volunteers were invited to attend the event which was held in a municipal building in Jocotenango.  I decided to go and found it worthwhile although I was unable to understand much of the speeches which were in Spanish.  An exception was the inspiring speech given by David Mckee who, along with his daughter, Sophie, founded the school in 2002.  David spoke slowly and distinctly in Spanish and I got most of it.   David Mckee, CEO and co-founder of the School of Hope offers some words of wisdom and encouragement to the sixth-grade graduates.   In addition to handing out diplomas and special awards, a small school band entertained with traditional Guatemalan instruments.  Students danced with each other and with their opposite sex parent. I don’t remember having nearly as much fun at my 6 th grade graduation way back in 1958 in Warwick, Rhode Island.   The school band played t
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Tuesday, 5 November 2024: A Colorful Sunday at Lake Atitlán

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I arrived in Guatemala on a Tuesday and realized by Friday that I would be stuck on the weekends by myself.   The other ½ dozen or so volunteers at the school are 50+ years younger than me so I doubted we would be hanging out together.   Ten years ago, I’d seen a lot of the city of Antigua in the two weeks I was here.   I didn’t want to sit around feeling bored and lonely.   Where could I go?   Violeta, the owner of the place where I’m staying, had recommended a travel agency four blocks from here.   Diana, the other volunteer staying here, gave me a flyer from the agency that listed trips.   A day trip to Lake Atitlán caught my eye because it is renowned as one of the scenic crown jewels of Guatemala.   The price for a day trip was $55 which included a modern mini-bus ride for the 2+ hour trip each way.   Once at the lake, you got a guided tour via boat to three towns. I’m not much for tours but figured a day-tour would be okay.  So on Friday, I booked the trip with the agency.  And o
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